No matter how big your home is or what material it’s made of, each one needs to have proper attic insulation to keep the temperature regulated and the energy bill down. And if you live in a region with particularly cold and snowy winters, that last sentence applies to you in bold font and all caps. Overall, the biggest benefit of having your attic insulated is better energy efficiency.
But which attic insulation is best? There isn’t a “one size fits all” answer to the best insulation, as several factors come into play. However, you can still determine which one may be the best attic insulation for you. Read on for everything you need to know about the different attic insulation options, and how you can choose which insulation type is right for you.
An Overview of R-Value
Any conversation about proper attic insulation must begin with a firm understanding of R-Value, the unit by which insulation’s strength is determined. Insulation R-Value is a material’s capacity to resist the transfer of heat or heat loss . A material’s R-Value is generally affected by the following four factors:
- Type of material (more on this shortly)
- Where and how it’s installed
The higher an attic’s total R-Value, the better it will be at trapping heat flow and keeping your home from turning into an iceberg in the winter or sauna in the summer.
Generally speaking, the US Department of Energy recommends maintaining the following overall R-Value levels in your attic:
- R30 in hot climates (like California)
- R38 in temperate climates (this is typically the desired level for residences in California)
- R49 in cold climates (note: if you live in a region where the temperature regularly drops to “every shop in town is closed today because it’s so cold outside” levels during the winter, maintaining a specific R-Value in your attic may be required by state law)
Types of Attic Insulation Material
Though R-Value is a “the higher, the better” measurement, the insulation material with the highest R-Value isn’t necessarily the best attic insulation choice for your house. Different insulation materials have unique strengths and weaknesses, and some attics will be more suited for certain material than others.
Here’s an overview of the most frequently used insulation material, the pros that made them so popular with consumers, and the cons you should consider before you buy:
So what is fiberglass insulation? is like the McDonald’s Big Mac of insulation material: it’s certainly not the highest quality option, but it’s easily the most popular insulation type . Its R-Value ranges from as low as 2.2 to as high as 4.3 in the case of specially manufactured high-density fiberglass. As such, it usually performs the worst in terms of insulation for attics.
The fact that it has been a staple of new insulation construction and Extreme Home Makeover-like gut renovations are easy to track. With many benefits of Fiberglass insulation, Some of the advantages include:
- It’s cheap and highly accessible
- It’s adept at resisting moisture, which is why it’s particularly sought after in regions with high humidity
- It doesn’t shrink over time
- It’s fire-resistant
- Insects will avoid nibbling on it
Cellulose insulation generally comes from either wood or recycled paper, and often manufacturers will claim it as a green product. Although cellulose has slightly more recycled content than other attic insulation types, it does not pass a holistic “green” assessment of its impact on the environment.
There are some concerns about cellulose insulation that you should keep in mind. Cellulose insulation is naturally flammable and is treated with high amounts of anti-flammable chemicals. The Consumer Products Safety Commission requires all cellulose manufacturers to warn their customers that cellulose insulation presents a fire hazard.
Although Cellulose remains an inexpensive commodity and is typically up to 25% cheaper than fiberglass insulation, it’s not without its drawbacks, such as:
- They’re a Glutton for Moisture – Any insulation is rendered useless as soon as it becomes wet. Because cellulose is designed to collect and hold water, it waves the white flag in the presence of moisture quicker than any other insulation material. This can cause cellulose insulation to not only slip in effectiveness, but also develop mold and mildew, and even rotting. And if cellulose does become wet, the boric acid used to treat it goes from being harmless to corrosive.
- Settling – Cellulose also tends to settle and sag over time, which takes away its superpowers. Thankfully, this is less of a problem with attics and pertains more to walls throughout the house.
- Dust – If you’re in the attic while cellulose insulation is being installed, strap your respiratory mask and goggles on extra tightly. Cellulose creates a whole lot of dust when first installed.
3. Mineral Wool
Featuring melted-down stone and recycled slag from steel mills, mineral wool batts are more widely utilized in Canada and Europe but are currently enjoying a resurgence in the US.
Compared to fiberglass, mineral wool is costlier, but you get what you pay for due to the following advantages:
- Fire Barrier – Mineral wool doesn’t even begin to burn until it reaches 1,8000 degrees Fahrenheit. In the worst-case scenario of a house fire, this will buy the fire department crucial, potentially home-saving extra minutes to arrive at the scene and take care of business.
- Water Warrior – In addition to being fire-resistant, mineral wool is also water-resistant, able to continue insulating even in the face of the worst moisture leak.
- Wall of (No) Sound – Mineral wool is extremely effective at blocking outside noise from entering your home.
There’s only one drawback with mineral wool insulation, but it’s a significant one: inhaling it during insulation can be potentially cancerous. Proceed with extreme caution if you’re present for the insulation installation.
4. Cotton Or Denim Insulation
Interestingly, cotton insulation comes from recycled blue jeans. And aside from the novelty of having former blue jeans hung up in your attic, cotton insulation is a viable choice for the following reasons:
- High Performance – With a typical R-Value of about 3.7 and up, cotton traps heat with the best of them.
- Safety – Whereas both fiberglass and mineral wool present safety hazards both in the physical handling of them and the fibers they release into the air, cotton couldn’t be safer to handle or install. No need to worry about it irritating your skin or the consequences of accidentally breathing it in during attic insulation installation.
Similar to mineral wool, denim insulation is an extremely expensive type of insulation.
If you’ve ever wondered what the difference is between fiberglass insulation vs foam, when it comes to performance, foam is the MVP of insulation material. There are two types of foam insulation:
- Open cell, which has an R-Value of about 3.5
- Closed cell foam, which hits a whopping R7!
Keep in mind that foam insulation is not recommended for residential applications and is mostly used for commercial or industrial applications. The benefits of foam include:
- Top-Notch Air Leakage Prevention – The only difference between foam and the 1986 Chicago Bears’ defense is that foam can’t do the Super Bowl Shuffle dance. Foam is the stingiest of defenders against air coming in or out, able to expand quickly and form an air sealing over cavities that other insulation materials couldn’t handle. This air sealing insulation type also discourages airborne contaminants from spreading.
- Pushing the Envelope – A house’s building envelope is the physical separation of conditioned space (where people move and breath) from unconditioned space (where they don’t). Foam is the only home insulation material that allows you to expand your building envelope to your attic’s roofline. This is a particularly clutch option if your HVAC system (heating, ventilation and air conditioning, for the layman) is located on the floor.
- Equally Tough on Water – Foam insulation is impermeable to water, which means it neither lets water in nor absorbs it. If that couldn’t make mold and mildew feel any less welcome, foam also contains a polymer that deters their growth, which means they don’t have a prayer of setting up shop around foam.
- Durability – Foam never settles or loses its efficiency, even in the face of severe temperature drops. You can leave it up for literally decades without having to worry about maintenance.
- Dual-Purpose – When you apply foam to your rooflines, the effect is two-fold. It not only fortifies your home’s attic structure but also serves as an unrivaled sound blocker.
Once again, the many perks that foam has to offer for your commercial or residential building will hit you in the wallet. Aside from the obvious downside of attic insulation cost, there are other drawbacks with foam to consider, such as:
- Shrinkage – Though the R-Value of foam never diminishes, it does shrink over time in some cases.
- Professional Installation or Bust – When the foam isn’t installed properly with an expert insulation installer, it’s likely to fold over itself and create voids that the naked eye can’t see. Even worse, you run the risk of exposing yourself to the foam before it fully cures and becomes non-toxic, a mistake that can have potentially life-threatening consequences.
Popular Attic Insulation Installation Methods
Typically, the insulation material is installed in an attic space in one of four ways:
1. Batt Insulation
Batts come packaged in rolled-up sheets featuring interweaving fibers. These fibers are usually held in place by adhesive binders in the form of either paper or reflective foil backing, both of which can serve as a vapor barrier.
The majority of batt insulation is either fiberglass or mineral wool and occasionally denim.
Because batts cover such extensive real estate, they are ideal for attics that fit the following description:
- An expansive area with little to no obstructions on the attic floor and plenty of headroom for the insulation installer to maneuver around
- No prior insulation is in place
- The area features joists (the horizontal structural wooden rods running between two beams in open space) that are spaced out evenly
If you’re in need of replacing your batt insulation, you’ll need to know how to remove batt insulation or you can contact an attic services professional to do the job for you.
2. Blown-in Insulation
Also known as loose-fill insulation, blown-in insulation comes in tiny chunks packaged in large bags, and entails using a blowing machine to fill in necessary spaces. Fiberglass, cotton, and mineral wool can all work as loose-fill insulation material, but the far and away top choice for blown-in insulation is fiberglass.
Contrary to batts insulation, blown-in fiberglass insulation is perfect for filling in tight voids around wiring, pipes, or any area with awkward framing.
3. Spray Foam Insulation
The spray can is the exclusive home of spray foam insulation. Often paired with blanket insulation to seal gaps, it is one of the most effective ways to insulate the attic space. The spray foam attic insulation is sprayed into the gap of your attic expanding and hardening into a solid foam.
4. Blanket Insulation
Blanket insulation is an inexpensive and easy way to install insulation into your attic floor and wall. Sliced thick pieces of insulation are fitted tightly between the gaps in wooden frames or around pipes, wires, and other obstacles to shield the attic from heat and cold. It’s important to avoid this type of attic floor and wall insulation in open spaces as it can affect the indoor air quality of your home.
Cost of Insulation for Attic
Whether you end up choosing fiberglass batt insulation, blow in insulation, or spray foam, it’s important to know the cost of different attic insulation types and overall insulation installation costs. According to Forbes Advisor, the average attic insulation cost can range from $1,500 to $3,500. However, this depends on the size of your attic space. Breaking it down by cost per square foot, the average cost is between $1 and $7 per square foot depending on the material of the attic insulation.
Attic insulation removal cost depends on the current condition of your home. Generally, you do not need to fully replace your attic insulation. Except in cases like serious water damage or animal infestation, a professional would need to rip out all the existing insulation and add in new insulation material. Removing your old insulation can typically cost around $1 to $2 per square foot.
How Much Attic Insulation Do I Need?
Generally, if it is less than about 10 to 13 inches, the equivalent of an R-30, it is recommended to add more insulation. However, depending on where you live and the age of your home, the recommended level of attic insulation is different.
Let Attic Construction Help You With All Your Insulation Needs
So you’ve determined the best insulation for your attic, what’s next? While DIY’ers can perform attic insulation, it certainly doesn’t mean it should be, especially when installing spray foam attic insulation.
At Attic Construction, we’re dedicated to working with you and your budget to assess which type of insulation best suits your unique attic, and how much of it you’ll need (because there is such a thing as too little or too much insulation in the attic) . Whether you have a finished attic or an unfinished attic, when you rely on our expert team of installers, you can rest easy knowing that the insulation installation will be done right and done safely.
Need help with a home insulation project? We are proud to offer the following insulation services at our locations:
Orange County Insulation Installation, Removal, and Replacement
San Diego Insulation Installation, Removal, and Replacement
1) “Batts, Blown or Sprayed? What’s the Best Attic Insulation?” by Allison Bailes
2) “Attic Insulation Types” by Rueben Saltzman
3) “Read This Before You Insulate Your Attic” by Mickey Goodman
4) Fiber Glass & Mineral Wool vs Cellulose Insulation: Comparing The Facts